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Pearl education
Pearl Jewellery, Pearl Strands and Custom Pearl Designs
Pearls are the only gem grown by a living creature, and understanding where they come from and how they are graded makes choosing a strand or custom piece far easier.
Pearl jewellery covers a wide range, from affordable freshwater strands to rare Broome South Sea pearls grown off Australia's north-west coast. The differences come down to the mollusc, the water it grows in, how long the pearl is cultivated and how thick its nacre becomes. Our guide to pearl types and identification is the best place to begin.
From there, the guides move through each major pearl family, Akoya, freshwater, Tahitian and South Sea, before explaining how pearls are judged. The pearl grading guide covers lustre, nacre, surface, shape and size, the five factors that shape both beauty and price.
We also look at speciality pearls such as keshi and mabe, the difference between natural and cultured pearls, and how to keep a strand in good condition. GemTrove has worked with pearls since 2008, and these guides draw on Graduate Gemologist (GIA) Raj Sood's experience to give you clear, practical information before you buy, design or restring.
Pillar guides
Start with these guides
Start here
A simple path through the basics
- Types of Pearls and Pearl Identification GuideGet an overview of the main pearl types and the simple signs that help tell them apart.
- Natural vs Cultured PearlsUnderstand how natural and cultured pearls form and why nearly all pearls sold today are cultured.
- Pearl Grading: Lustre, Nacre, Surface, Shape, SizeLearn the five grading factors that determine a pearl's appearance and value.
- Akoya PearlsSee why classic round Akoya pearls are the benchmark for traditional white strands.
- Pearl Care and RestringingFind out how to wear, store and restring pearls so they last for generations.
Pearls
Pearl fundamentals
Pearls
Grading and quality
Pearls
Major pearl types
Pearls
Speciality pearls
Pearls
Care and restringing
Every guide
All 11 pearls guides
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Ask a gemologist
Talk it through with a gemologist
Raj Sood is a Graduate Gemologist (GIA) and master jeweller. Bring the stones you are considering, or send the reports, and he will explain the differences in plain language.
FAQ
Pearls questions
What is the difference between Akoya, freshwater, Tahitian and South Sea pearls?
They come from different molluscs and waters. Akoya pearls are small and highly lustrous, freshwater pearls are affordable and varied, Tahitian pearls are naturally dark, and South Sea pearls are the largest, in white or golden tones.
Are Broome pearls the same as South Sea pearls?
Broome pearls are a type of South Sea pearl grown in Australian waters by the Pinctada maxima oyster. They are known for their large size, thick nacre and silvery-white lustre.
How can I tell if a pearl is real?
Real pearls usually feel slightly gritty when gently rubbed against a tooth and show small natural irregularities, while imitations often feel smooth and look too uniform. A gemmological laboratory can confirm identity and whether a pearl is natural or cultured.
What matters most when grading pearls?
Lustre is usually the most important factor, followed by nacre thickness, surface quality, shape and size. Together these determine how bright, durable and valuable a pearl is.
How often should a pearl strand be restrung?
Strands worn regularly are commonly restrung every one to two years, or sooner if the silk looks stretched or discoloured. Knotting between each pearl helps prevent loss if the thread breaks.
What are keshi and mabe pearls?
Keshi pearls are solid-nacre pearls formed without a bead nucleus, often in unusual shapes. Mabe pearls are half-pearls grown against the inside of the shell, popular for earrings and rings.
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