White Gold vs Platinum: Which Is Better for Your Ring?

White gold vs platinum: what is the difference?

White gold is gold mixed with white metals, then usually coated with a thin layer of rhodium for a bright white finish. Platinum is a separate precious metal that is naturally white all the way through, so it never needs plating to stay white. Our broader guide to the best metal for an engagement ring sets both against yellow gold, rose gold and palladium.

Neither metal is better in every way. The right choice depends on your budget, how you use your hands, your skin and how much upkeep you are happy to do. If you come across an unfamiliar term along the way, our jewellery glossary defines it in a line or two.

What is 18ct white gold made of?

Pure gold is yellow and too soft for a ring, so it is always mixed with other metals, called an alloy. White gold uses whitening metals such as palladium, nickel, silver or zinc. The carat number (ct) tells you how much pure gold is in it: 18ct (750) is 75% gold, 14ct (585) is 58.5% and 9ct (375) is 37.5%. Our 9ct vs 18ct gold guide and 14ct gold explainer cover the trade-offs. Pure 24ct gold cannot be made white at all, which is one reason white gold rarely goes above 18ct; see high-purity 22ct and 24ct gold for why those grades stay yellow.

Even with whitening metals, white gold keeps a faint warm or grey tint. That is why most white gold jewellery is finished with rhodium, a hard, bright white metal from the platinum family, applied in a layer only a fraction of a micron thick. Our article on why white gold is rhodium plated explains the process and what happens when the plating wears.

White gold is solid gold right through. Do not confuse it with plated or filled jewellery, which only has a thin gold layer over a base metal; see gold plated vs gold filled vs solid gold. Vermeil is different again, a gold layer over sterling silver, explained in our guide to gold vermeil.

What is platinum 950, and what does the hallmark mean?

Jewellery platinum is almost pure. The most common grade is PT950, which is 95% platinum; some jewellery uses PT900 (90%). The small remaining percentage is another metal, such as ruthenium, iridium or cobalt, added to make it easier to cast and polish. Our platinum 950 vs 900 guide compares the two, and our platinum jewellery page explains why jewellers like it for settings.

Look inside the band for the stamp, often called a hallmark. In Australia you will usually see 750 or 18ct on 18ct gold, 585 or 14ct on 14ct, 375 or 9ct on 9ct, and PT950, 950 Plat or similar on platinum, usually next to the maker's mark.

Australia does not have a compulsory independent assay and hallmarking system, as the United Kingdom does. The stamp is applied by the maker, and under Australian Consumer Law it must be accurate. That makes it worth buying from a jeweller who can tell you exactly which alloy went into your ring.

White gold vs platinum: which is more durable?

Both are durable enough for an everyday ring, but platinum vs white gold durability is less about which is stronger and more about how each one wears.

• White gold is quite hard, so it resists small dents well. When it is scratched, a tiny amount of metal is lost. Over decades, thin parts such as claws and the bottom of the band slowly wear thinner.
• Platinum is dense and tough rather than hard. A scratch pushes the metal aside instead of removing it, so the surface turns slightly matte, a look called a patina. It can be polished back to a high shine, and very little metal is lost in the process.

For claws, that difference matters. Platinum claws tend to bend rather than snap and keep their bulk for longer, which is one reason many jewellers prefer platinum for holding a centre diamond. Whichever you choose, claws still need checking, and worn claws can be rebuilt (retipped) with fresh metal before a stone is at risk.

Does platinum look whiter than white gold?

On the day you collect it, a freshly rhodium-plated white gold ring is actually slightly brighter and whiter than platinum. Rhodium is a very reflective, cool white. Platinum has a deeper grey-white colour, a little darker and softer in tone.

Over time the picture changes. Platinum stays the same colour right through, so a scratch or worn edge looks just like the rest of the ring. White gold shows its own colour wherever the rhodium thins, which is a faint warm or champagne tone in most alloys. Side by side after a year or two of daily wear, platinum usually looks more even, and white gold looks brighter in some places and warmer in others until it is replated.

If you love warmth rather than white, the comparison may be the wrong one. Our article on what gives rose gold its colour explains how copper changes gold, and yellow gold rings set with colourless diamonds shows how a white centre stone sits in a warm metal.

Does white gold turn yellow?

White gold does not change colour itself, but its rhodium plating wears off with use, starting on the palm side of the band where it rubs against keyboards, steering wheels and other rings. As it thins, the slightly warm colour of the gold underneath shows through. A jeweller can clean, polish and re-plate the ring, which takes it back to bright white in a day or two.

How often a ring needs white gold rhodium plating depends on what you do with your hands, so treat those intervals as a guide. A ring worn only on weekends may go several years; a ring worn daily against a wedding band may need it sooner. Between visits, warm soapy water and a soft toothbrush keep both metals clean.

Is platinum better for sensitive skin?

Usually, yes. PT950 is very pure and rarely causes reactions. Some white gold alloys contain nickel, one of the most common causes of metal allergy, while others use palladium instead and are nickel-free. Rhodium plating hides the alloy at first, but once it wears through, the skin can touch it. If you have reacted to jewellery before, ask exactly what alloy is used before you choose, and consider platinum or a palladium-based white gold.

Platinum is also much denser than gold: about 20.7–21 grams per cubic centimetre for PT950, compared with roughly 14.5–16 for 18ct white gold. The same ring made in platinum feels noticeably heavier, roughly 30–40% more depending on the alloy. Some people love that solid feel; others prefer a lighter ring for all-day wear, especially with a wide band.

White gold vs platinum: why does platinum cost more?

The price of platinum per gram moves up and down, and at times it has been lower than gold. A platinum ring still usually costs more than the same ring in 18ct white gold, for three reasons:

• More metal: platinum is denser, so the same design uses more grams.
• Higher purity: PT950 is 95% precious metal, compared with 75% in 18ct gold.
• Harder to work: platinum melts at about 1,770 °C, far higher than gold alloys, and needs different casting, soldering and polishing, which adds workshop time.

Metal prices change daily, so quotes are only valid for a set time. Our guide to how metal prices affect jewellery prices explains why, and what part of a ring's price is metal versus labour and stones.

Platinum or white gold for an engagement ring?

For an engagement ring, the questions that matter most are how the metal holds the diamond, how it makes the diamond look, and how it sits next to the wedding band.

• Holding the stone: platinum claws are prized for security. A common middle path is an 18ct white gold band with a platinum head (the part holding the diamond).
• Diamond colour: both white metals reflect white light, so the diamond's own colour shows clearly. Most people choose about H colour or better in a white metal.
• Matching the wedding band: rings worn together rub. A harder metal can wear a softer one over time, so it is simplest to make both rings in the same metal and carat. Our guide to mixing metals in a bridal set covers combinations that work.
• Thin bands: very fine bands under about 2 mm benefit from platinum's toughness, or from a slightly thicker gold band.

If you are still weighing gold colours, our yellow vs white vs rose gold comparison explains how each looks with diamonds, and our gold jewellery guide covers carat grades and colours in depth.

How to choose between white gold and platinum

1. Set your budget. If the budget is tight, 18ct white gold lets more of it go towards the diamond.
2. Check your skin. If you react to some jewellery, choose platinum or a nickel-free white gold.
3. Think about your hands. Hands-on work favours platinum claws, or a slightly thicker white gold band.
4. Decide on upkeep. Happy to replate every year or two? White gold is fine. Prefer to leave it alone? Choose platinum.
5. Try the weight. Hold a platinum and a white gold ring of similar size; many people decide on feel alone.
6. Check the stamp. Make sure the ring is marked 750, PT950 or similar, and ask which alloy was used.
7. Plan the wedding band. Make it in the same metal, or ask your jeweller about pairing two different metals.