Solitaire Engagement Rings: The Complete Australian Guide

What are solitaire engagement rings?

A solitaire is a ring with one centre stone and nothing else competing for attention: no halo, no side stones, usually a plain metal band. The word comes from the French for 'alone'. Most solitaire engagement rings hold a diamond, but the same setting suits sapphires, moissanite and other hard gems. It is the simplest of every engagement ring setting style, and the one most other styles are built from.

Because the design is so pared back, the details carry more weight. The number of claws, the shape of the head (the part that holds the stone), how high the stone sits and how wide the band is all change the look more than they would in a busy design. A solitaire with a 1.8 mm band and fine claws looks quite different from one with a 3 mm band and heavy claws, even with exactly the same diamond.

Jewellers use the word a little loosely, so it helps to know where the line sits:

• Classic solitaire: one stone on a plain band. This is what most people picture.
• Solitaire with a hidden halo: a ring of small diamonds tucked under the head, visible only from the side. Face-up it still reads as a solitaire.
• Solitaire with a pavé band: tiny diamonds set along the band. Many jewellers still call this a solitaire because there is one main stone.
• Not a solitaire: three-stone rings, halos and cluster designs, where several stones share the spotlight.

If any term in this guide is new to you, our jewellery glossary explains it in plain English.

What are the parts of a solitaire ring setting?

Every solitaire, however simple it looks, has five parts. The head holds the stone. The claws (also called prongs) are the metal posts that grip the diamond's girdle, its outer edge. The gallery is the open area under the stone you see from the side. The shoulders are where the band rises to meet the head, and the shank is the band itself.

The head is where solitaires differ most. These are the main constructions you will see:

A basket is the most common everyday choice; a trellis gives a prettier profile; a peg head gives the classic tall look. Our guide to basket, trellis and peg heads compared shows each one side on.

Should a solitaire have four claws or six?

This is the first question most people ask about a solitaire diamond ring, and the answer depends on the shape of the stone and how you live. Claws are folded over the girdle and polished, so the diamond is held only by small points of metal. More claws means more security but a little more metal over the stone.

The shape of each claw matters as well. Round claws are the most common and the hardest-wearing. Claw-tipped (talon) claws taper to a fine point for a vintage look. Flat or tab claws lie close to the stone, double claws put two thin posts where one would be, and V-claws wrap the points of princess, pear and marquise stones. Our guide to claw tip styles shows each profile, and the full four-claw vs six-claw comparison goes through real examples.

How high should a solitaire setting sit?

Setting height is measured from the top of the finger to the top of the stone. A 1 carat round diamond is about 6.4 mm across and about 3.9 mm deep, and its pointed base (the culet) needs clearance above the band, so even a low setting lifts it several millimetres. As a rough guide for a 1 carat round, a low setting sits about 4–5 mm high, a medium setting about 5.5–6.5 mm and a high setting 7 mm or more.

• Low setting: catches less on hair, gloves and jumpers, and suits nurses, tradies and anyone hands-on. A straight wedding band may not sit flush, because the head or gallery gets in the way.
• Medium setting: the everyday balance. Most straight bands sit close underneath it.
• High setting: shows the stone off from the side and lets a straight band slide right underneath, but it takes more knocks over the years.

Our comparison of low-profile and high-profile rings covers the trade-offs in daily life. If you already know which wedding band you want, read how setting height affects wedding band fit before you lock in the head, because it is far easier to plan now than to alter later.

Which band width suits a solitaire diamond ring?

The band is half of a solitaire's design. A thinner band makes the centre stone look larger by contrast; a wider band looks stronger and more modern. Most solitaire bands fall between 1.8 and 3 mm wide, with 4 mm for bolder or men's designs.

Our guide to band widths from 1.8 to 4 mm shows each width on the hand. Beyond width, the band's shape changes the whole character of the ring:

• Tapered: a tapered band narrows towards the head, which draws the eye to the diamond.
• Reverse taper: a reverse taper widens towards the head, giving a stronger, more architectural look.
• Knife-edge: a knife-edge profile peaks along the top, so the band looks finer than its width.
• Twisted: a twisted band spirals towards the head for a softer, romantic feel.
• Split shank: a split shank divides into two strands near the head, good for larger stones.
• Comfort-fit: a rounded comfort-fit inner edge slides over the knuckle more easily.

What makes a solitaire look refined is proportion. The claws should be in scale with the band, the head should not look heavier than the shoulders, and the gallery should be clean and polished, because people see the ring side on far more than you expect. A fine band with chunky claws, or a wide band with a tiny head, is what makes a solitaire look unbalanced.

Which diamond shapes suit solitaire engagement rings?

Every diamond shape can be set as a solitaire, but each needs a slightly different head. Diamond is 10 on the Mohs hardness scale and has a refractive index of about 2.42, which is why it returns so much light, but it can still chip at a sharp corner or point. The claws must protect those weak spots.

Elongated shapes such as oval, emerald and marquise can also be set east-west, turned sideways across the finger, for a modern solitaire.

Size matters more in a solitaire because the stone is judged on its own. A 0.50 carat round is about 5.1 mm across and a 1 carat about 6.4 mm; there are no side stones to add sparkle, so cut quality makes the biggest visible difference. Many people put more of the budget into an excellent cut and choose a slightly lower colour or clarity, which is hard to see once the stone is set.

Platinum or gold: how does a solitaire wear over the years?

From the repair side of the bench, solitaires age in a predictable way. The claw tips wear first, because they take every knock. Then the band thins on the palm side, where it rubs against everything you hold. Knowing this helps you choose the metal and the claw size.

• Platinum (usually 95% pure): heavy, naturally white and very good at holding claws. When scratched, the metal is pushed aside rather than lost, and it develops a soft grey patina that can be polished back.
• 18ct gold (75% gold): available in yellow, white and rose. White gold is usually rhodium plated for a bright white colour; on a ring worn every day, expect to replate roughly every 1–3 years.
• 9ct gold (37.5% gold): harder than 18ct but paler in colour, and a little more prone to reacting with some skin.
• Claws: on a daily-wear ring, claws often need re-tipping (new metal added to the tips) after several years, and eventually the whole head may be replaced.
• Bands: a 1.8 mm band reaches the point of needing work sooner than a 2.5 mm band. Re-shanking (replacing the lower part of the band) is a standard repair.

Many of the same wear points apply to men's solitaire rings, where a low head and a 4 mm band are a popular way to keep the stone safe on hands that work hard.

Is a solitaire better than a halo, cluster or bypass ring?

Neither is better overall; they solve different problems. A solitaire shows the stone exactly as it is, while other styles add size, colour or movement.

If you like a single stone but want more movement, look at bypass rings, where the band curves past the stone. And if a classic solitaire feels too expected, our guide on choosing a ring when traditional styles leave you cold suggests ways to keep one stone and still look different.

How much do solitaire engagement rings cost in Australia?

In a solitaire, the centre stone usually makes up most of the price. The setting itself is simple, so metal weight and craftsmanship decide its cost. These are rough guides only; actual prices move with metal markets, diamond grades and design.

Natural and lab-grown: a laboratory-grown diamond has the same chemistry, hardness and sparkle as a natural diamond and looks identical in a solitaire. Lab-grown costs much less, so the same budget buys a larger stone. Natural diamonds are rarer and formed deep in the earth, typically one to three billion years ago. Both should come with an independent grading report from a lab such as GIA or IGI, and the report should say clearly whether the stone is natural or laboratory-grown.

A solitaire diamond is also easy to pair later: a matching solitaire pendant or studs in the same head style make a set that grows over time.

How to choose a solitaire engagement ring: step by step

1. Choose the stone shape and size. This decides the claws and head, so start here.
2. Pick the claw count and style. Four for a squarer, open look; six for extra security on a round or oval; V-claws on any points.
3. Choose the head. Basket for everyday practicality, trellis for a pretty side view, peg head for height.
4. Set the height. Think about your work and hobbies, and whether you want a straight wedding band to sit flush.
5. Choose the band width and shape. 1.8–2.2 mm for a delicate look, 2.5–3 mm for strength or larger stones.
6. Choose the metal. Platinum, 18ct white, yellow or rose gold, keeping in mind replating and claw wear.
7. Check the proportions. Look at a render or the finished ring side on: claws, head and band should be in scale.
8. Plan the care. Book a claw check every 6–12 months and clean the ring regularly so soap and skin do not dull the stone.